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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.